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Circa 1986 through 1992: Karl Lagerfeld was appointed the creative director and head designer for Chanel in 1983.Shortly thereafter, he hired Victoire de Castellane to oversee the designs for Chanel's costume jewelry, where she remained until 1998 .Beginning 1980 and until 1985, the date on most piece substituted for the phrase MADE IN FRANCE.Variations I've seen on this plate include: an oval rather than a round plate, and copyright mark next to the CC logo as opposed to one side of the word CHANEL.Pieces designed by de Castellane circa 1986 to 1992 are identifiable by their oval signature plate.At the top of the plate is the word CHANEL, accompanied on each side by copyright and trademark.At the bottom of the plate is the signature MADE IN FRANCE.In the middle of the plate is the CC logo with the number 2 on the left side and an additional single-digit number on the right.
Many of the pieces from this time period are marked simply as CHANEL, usually stamped directly on the piece itself.This jewelry is not associated with the house of Chanel but rather was produced by a American company called the Chanel Novelty Company.Chanel sued to have the company change its name, and it shortly thereafter became the Reinad Novelty Company.Another change for Chanel is its addition of earrings for pierced ears, and rings.Earrings for pierced ears, which are much smaller than the clip earrings previously standard for Chanel, may have a harder-to-find signature because there's very limited space available on the piece.
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The jewelry has value in and of itself for a number of reasons, but it shouldn't be mistaken for Chanel costume jewelry.